Monday, January 13, 2025
BassBass Guitar

Small Bass But Big Tone! – Ibanez Mikro GSRM20 [Demo]


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#Small #Bass #Big #Tone #Ibanez #Mikro #GSRM20 #Demo

Originally posted by UCphcYCMTiHot0k2I6nmT0Cw at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yVl44tVzjM

25 thoughts on “Small Bass But Big Tone! – Ibanez Mikro GSRM20 [Demo]

  • Roadster Orange Metallic. Just bought one in this color this year. Considering upgrading the bridge, nut and tuners, and dropping in a nordstrand p/j set. Great fun this little bass.

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  • Surprises me that you cant remember how much you paid for it. Or even where you bought it from!

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  • As a guitarist who has been recording using a POG with some drive to record bass tracks i think im finally going to get a bass for recording and you've sold me on this one. I will never be gigging with a bass and just wanted something simple that slaps to lay down some bottom through a bass modeling amp and this guy seems to do the job. This is a great review that sold me completely vs the mini P Bass due to the bridge pickup. I have a mini strat for travel that this would complement nicely on the rack. Thanks for the review.

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  • I just looked up that bass, and here in Canada, in 2024, the fret board is described as " Bound Purpleheart". Might be another name for the same wood.

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  • I have one in "Transparent Red" that I picked up with a lil Fender Rumble 10w combo amp to learn it. SO MUCH BANG for the BUCKS! It's seriously an amazing bass for so little money, and it sounds wonderful! You don't want to do a huge investment until you learn, but you don't want to go TOO cheap either because a crappy sound discourages new students. I love mine and am thoroughly enjoying learning on it!

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  • I've had one for years. Pickups are fine, sounds great through my 40 watt fender rumble. The only downside of this bass to me is the bridge…have to periodically reset the intonation. Use flatwounds on mine…because the neck is so small, you can play melody along with the bass lines to mix things up. Not much larger than a strat neck.

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  • I find the original pickups to be quite good. There is no need to change them immediately. With good strings and a well-tuned amp, it is possible to have a good sound, the rest is the fingers that create the melody

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  • I'm 60 years old. I've been a gigging musician for over 43 years. I'm also a recently retired telephone lineman whose had a back injury. So I play a Music Man Cutlass for my main guitar. It is compact and weighs in at just over six pounds. I experience very little pain playing it for a whole show.
    I also play bass in another band. I bought a Mikro bass for the same reasons. I still can't believe how good the instrument sounds. A heavy, full scale bass would be painful for me. Not this bass.
    The only shortcoming I found in it is a typical issue with many electric stringed instruments. I experienced a noticable volume difference moving from note to note and string to string.
    I solved that problem handily with an Electro-Harmonix Platform compressor pedal. The pedal plus a Radial JDI direct box comprise my bass rig. The sound and feel is perfect for my taste. It really thumps.
    I can't say enough good things about the Mikro.

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  • I'm interested in how long the neck is? I want to take a travel this bass, I need to know if the neck of the bass will fit into my suitcase or not. Please write down who knows

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  • Hello! Could you tell me how much this Ibanez weighs and what is the length of the neck? Not the beaker, but the neck itself with the head. I will be grateful for the information!

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  • I have one of these, 'cept the color of mine is black. I gotta say I really like it as a bass. It wasn't too terribly expensive, has a good weight to it, doesn't go out of tune easily, and overall is comfortable to play. My only issue with it is that they don't label what each knob is for, given that I'm a beginner. I'm considering using a friend's label maker to label them manually though, that way I can really get the tone and sound I want

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  • This 24fps doesn't have enough motion blur to look good. If you insist on a LOW frame rate, switch your cameras to PAL mode and shoot 25fps at 1/40th or 1/60th of a second to prevent your interior lights from flickering on screen. Activate Shutter Priority Mode so that auto exposure doesn't adjust the frame rate and destroy your motion blur. There's no need for 24fps unless you're putting the footage on a bluray or broadcast TV.

    Otherwise, switch to 30fps with a 1/50th of a second shutter speed for a slightly smoother, but equally artistic look that's almost just as easy on storage space. Also, make sure you're shooting in an all-intra-frame codec and you have a FAST write SD card as that's the only way to preserve motion accuracy regardless of frame rate. Lastly, if you have the choice between a decimal rate and a true rate (23.98 vs 24 or 29.97 vs 30) select the true rate, as computers and digital distribution seems to like that a little better.

    Decimal rates are only for broadcast TV on the old standards to boot. If there's only decimal in the menu, just match your editing timeline exactly to it. If there's only the true rate in the menu, look up in the manual or online for what the camera's actually doing (likely shooting decimal for broadcast compatibility and lying to you about it being true rate) and match your editing timeline to that. One benefit of the PAL frame rates (25/50/100, etc) is that they don't and never HAVE had decimal versions, so there's not even the possibility of a point of confusion or mismatch.

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