Thursday, November 21, 2024
BassBass Amps

How To Choose A Bass Amplifier – Bass Amplifier Buying Guide!


Dagan explains the differences between bass amplifiers and shows us the differences between solid-state, valve and modeling bass amps. Plus many more handy tips for when you come to choose your bass amp.

Shop Bass Guitar amps over at PMT Online: https://www.pmtonline.co.uk/products/bass/bassamplifiers

In this handy bass amp buying guide, Dagan walks us through his recommended decision process when choosing a new bass amplifier.

He provides a guide on the differences between valve and solid-state bass amps, whether or not you should be using a bass amp with Active or Passive functionality, best wattage and more.

Dagan also offers some advice on whether or not you should be choosing an amp that you can gig with or you just need something for around the home. We discuss price differences, what you get for your money and whether or you actually NEED a bass amp or just an amplifier pedal.

Watch our Bass Guitar Buying Guide video: https://youtu.be/i2IyDgRKhQ0

Let us know what you think in the comments below.

Skip to relevant sections:

0:48 Valve, Solid State or Modeling bass amps?
3:00 Active vs Passive
4:29 Wattage
5:17 Gigging or Home bass amp?
8:25 How much should I spend on a bass amp?
9:57 bass amplifier pedal?

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Originally posted by UCb5PQHC0CsA48rlI6gefr5A at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8AHjtov6QA

32 thoughts on “How To Choose A Bass Amplifier – Bass Amplifier Buying Guide!

  • Always go for something with more power than you need. I bought a Rumble 40 and wish I'd have gone for at least the Rumble 100 now.

    Reply
  • Great stuff I really enjoyed this guy he always has good practical advice. Thank you Dad you're awesome PS one thing I also like about this guy he doesn't always try to push the most expensive stuff but be practical and wise with your money

    Reply
  • I'm looking for a bass amp in this days, the problem I see as beginner is that in many videos in YT, is played bass, there are tabs but never is told about bass amp or other bass effects, I mean the way to get the sound.

    Reply
  • You’re enunciation is problematic. Slow down so we can understand you. OK, mate?

    Reply
  • Active basses should not be louder than passive ones. You find a good bass that can do both and when switching between active and passive there should not be a difference in volume.

    Reply
  • F.Y.I. Hi power is 'NOT" the route to high-volume! Each time you double the power of an amp, you increase its volume by only 3dB. BUT…because of the laws that govern electrical propagation, you need to increase the volume by 10dB for it to sound subjectively 'twice' as loud. That being the case: if 100W = 100dB, then 200W = 103 dB, 400W = 106 dB, 800W = 109 dB, and finally 1000W = 110dB. How much would that amp cost!

    Reply
  • A solid state can simply never produce the same reaction to playing than tubes, no matter good a solid state can sound, it wont react the same way, doesnt mean its not good but never be the same, is it different with bass?

    Reply
  • I got my bass amps by finding the cheapest amps I could find transportation for at the time of buying. For a big amp I found a Behringer 300wt combo about 100 miles away for $220. Then 6 mths later I found a 25 watt Behringer Thunderbird about 6 miles away for $45. Good enough for me since I'm actually a guitar player 1st. These still make enough noise along side my 60 watt tube guitar amps or my practice amps for fun. Heck I only paid $80 for a great Dr. Tech bass anyways and $20 for a Zoom bass multi effect pedal. Which sounds like crap but does have some O K sounds. Still its pretty loud system for what most would pay just for a bass and nothing else. Plus I got 1 of those Behringer BH1 bass D I pedals but it makes a horrible noise when in use. $16. I kinda blew the little amps speaker so I use a 6 band E Q to take out the offending vibration frequency so I can still use the little bass amp for now.

    Reply
  • I actually had that rig an Ampeg SVT CL300 (that's 300 tube watts powered by six 6L6 tubes) running at 2 ohms into quality bass cab's such as my Ampeg SVT 410HE Classic, Ampeg SVT 15E Classic, Ampeg SVT 210AV and a Crown 810 (Ampeg owned Crown at that time so it was actually an Ampeg 8×10 speaker cab with another name). I could mix and match cab's for almost any occasion. Most of the time I ran the SVT CL 300 through the SVT 410HE and SVT15E with the Crown 810 all at 2 ohms, together this rig was so loud it was enough for probably any stage in the world.

    That rig was louder than my hot rodded Marshall JCM900 MkII 100watt and Full Stack of JCM900 1960A and 1960B cabs. That bass rig, especially the 15" speaker cab punched out such powerful low frequencies that I began losing my hearing . I played through the fretless Fender P Bass Jazz guitar. I sold everything when I could no longer even hold a bass guitar due to injuries. I'd be deaf by now if I had kept that rig!

    These day's I have another fretless bass guitar and my Ampeg BA-210 and another Ampeg 15E both powered by the BA-210 at 4ohms and around 380/425 watts. Sounds great just not as loud as the Ampeg SVT CL 300 through the 15E and 410HE cabs. I want to emphasize that this rig sounds great, just not as loud as the SVT CL300 tube amp! Nowhere as loud not even half as loud.-Peter age 72

    Reply
  • If you were a bass player, you would have given better information. I’m going for a Hiawatha jam because I’ve been playing bass for quite a while and I do know that a higher white bass amp nowadays, can sound just as good as a higher white bass amp, at a lower volume.

    Reply

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